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Care at a Glance

⭐ Difficulty: Easy–Moderate
☀️ Light: Bright indirect
💧 Water: Every 1–2 weeks
🌡️ Temp: 65–85°F
🐾 Pet Safe: No ⚠️
🌫️ Humidity: Medium–High (60–80%)

Anthurium Care Guide

Anthurium andraeanum

By Learn Plant Care·Last reviewed: 2026-06-16·Toxicity verified via ASPCA
Anthurium (Anthurium andraeanum) in a pot near a window
Anthurium — plant photo

Quick Answer

Anthurium's biggest enemy is overwatering — it needs a chunky, bark-heavy aroid mix that drains fast and roots that never sit in moisture. Water when the top inch is dry, give it a bright spot without any direct sun, and the glossy spathes will last for months. The other thing people miss: spent flowers don't drop on their own, so cut them off at the base once the spadix browns.

Difficulty

Easy–Moderate

☀️Light

Bright indirect

💧Watering

Every 1–2 weeks

🌫️Humidity

Medium–High (60–80%)

🌡️Temperature

65–85°F

📈Growth Rate

Moderate

Toxicity

⚠️ Toxic to Cats⚠️ Toxic to Dogs⚠️ Toxic to Humans

Source: ASPCA Animal Poison Control

Watering

Summer

Every 1–2 weeks

Winter

Every 2–3 weeks

Method: Water when top inch is dry

In summer, water anthurium approximately every 1–2 weeks; in winter cut back to every 2–3 weeks. Rather than following a calendar, water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom, then don't water again until the soil passes the dryness check. Yellow leaves often signal overwatering; drooping with dry soil means it needs water now.

Light Requirements

Bright indirect

Anthurium does best 2–3 feet from a south- or east-facing window, screened from direct midday sun. Direct sun scorches the waxy leaves fast. If you want consistent re-blooming, brighter indirect light is key — a sheer curtain over a south window is ideal.

Soil & Potting

Soil: Chunky aroid mix (bark + perlite + potting mix)

Pot: Pot with drainage; well-aerated

Temperature & Humidity

Temperature: 6585°F (1829°C)

Humidity: Medium–High (60–80%)

Fertilizing

Frequency: Monthly spring/summer

Type: Phosphorus-rich fertilizer to encourage blooms

Common Problems

Brown spadix

Brown spadix → Old bloom. Remove spent flowers at base. The flower naturally ages from bright red or pink to brown over several months — this is normal aging, not disease. Cut the stem off at its base once the spathe dulls and the spadix browns, which encourages the plant to redirect energy into new blooms rather than seed production.

Yellow leaves

Yellow leaves → Overwatering or too much direct sun. Catching the problem early makes it much easier to fix than waiting until the plant is in serious distress. If soil is consistently wet, hold off watering entirely until it dries out; if light is too harsh, move slightly further from the window or add a sheer curtain.

No new blooms

No new blooms → Needs more light or phosphorus. Move the plant meaningfully closer to a window rather than just a few inches — plants often need far more light than we assume they do. Switch from a balanced fertiliser to one higher in phosphorus (the middle number on the label) during spring and summer to encourage flower production.

Brown tips

Brown tips → Low humidity. Increase with humidifier. Brown tips that aren't soft usually come from low humidity or tap-water minerals (fluoride and chlorine). Try switching to filtered or rainwater and raising local humidity with a pebble tray. Existing brown areas won't green up, but new growth will be clean once the cause is addressed.

Propagation

The most reliable way to propagate anthurium is by division at repotting time. Unpot the plant and gently work the root mass apart with your hands or a clean knife, ensuring each section has healthy roots and at least 2–3 leaves. Pot each division into fresh chunky aroid mix and water lightly. The common mistake: being too tentative. It's fine if some roots are disturbed — the plant is resilient once it has its own established root system. Stem cuttings also work on mature plants — take a cutting with at least 2 nodes and pot directly into moist aroid mix.

Seasonal Care Calendar

🌸 Spring

Spring is when anthurium starts actively pushing new growth as day length and light intensity increase. Increase watering frequency as the plant becomes more active, begin fertilising every 2–4 weeks with a balanced liquid fertiliser, and this is the ideal window for repotting or taking cuttings.

☀️ Summer

Summer is peak growing season — anthurium is working hard and using water and nutrients faster than at other times of year. Water more frequently but check the soil rather than going on a fixed schedule, since heat and higher light accelerate drying. This is when the most blooms typically appear; make sure phosphorus levels are adequate.

🍂 Fall

Fall is a transition: anthurium grows more slowly as light levels decrease. Reduce watering frequency slightly, stop fertilising by late October, and move it closer to a window to compensate for shorter days. Avoid drafts from opening windows as temperatures drop. Watch for flower buds developing — avoid repotting or relocating the plant at this time.

❄️ Winter

In winter, anthurium enters a slower-growth phase and uses water more slowly than in summer. Water less frequently to avoid root issues from soil staying wet too long in low light. If your home is heated and the air is dry, a pebble tray or humidifier keeps the plant comfortable.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get my anthurium to bloom more?

Anthurium blooms most reliably with bright indirect light and adequate phosphorus. If it's been in the same spot for a while without flowering, try moving it closer to a window — more light is usually the fix. Switch to a fertiliser with a higher middle number (phosphorus) in spring and summer, and make sure you're removing spent blooms promptly so the plant redirects energy into new growth. Consistent warmth above 65°F also helps; anthuriums don't bloom well in cool conditions.

How often should I water an anthurium?

Every 1–2 weeks in summer is a reasonable starting point, but check the soil rather than going by calendar. Water when the top inch feels dry, then water thoroughly. Anthurium is very susceptible to root rot in waterlogged soil, especially in a dense mix — the chunky bark-based aroid mix it prefers dries out faster than regular potting soil, so you may water more often than you expect.

Why are my anthurium flowers turning green?

Green flowers on anthurium are almost always normal — the spathe (the waxy "flower") naturally fades from its original colour to greenish as it ages over several months. This is the bloom reaching the end of its life cycle. Once it's fully green, cut it at the base to encourage the plant to produce a new one. If a very new bloom is coming in green rather than the expected colour, it usually signals insufficient light.

Is anthurium toxic to pets?

Yes — anthurium is toxic to both cats and dogs. The plant contains calcium oxalate crystals that cause intense oral irritation, drooling, vomiting, and swelling if ingested. Keep it on a high shelf or in a room pets can't access. If ingestion occurs, contact your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (888-426-4435).

Why are my anthurium leaves turning yellow?

Yellow leaves on anthurium most often indicate overwatering or inconsistent watering. Check the soil — if it's wet, hold off until it dries out properly. Too much direct sun can also yellow the leaves; make sure the plant is in bright indirect rather than harsh sun. Older lower leaves yellowing occasionally is normal as the plant sheds them naturally.